1、天津大學博士學位論文近岸波浪傳播應用模型研究姓名：劉百橋申請學位級別：博士專業(yè)：港口海岸與近海工程指導教師：趙子丹2000.2.1AbstractBasedonthelinearcomponentwavetheorytheshallowwatercirculationequationsandanewlyinventedstatisticalmodelforbreakingwavedecayingapracticalmodelsystem

2、fornearshorewavepropagationissetupinthispaperwhichaimstosupplementtheusualcomputationalmodelswithmuchmoreefficientandconvenientincoastalengineeringapplicationbygraspingthemainphysicalbackgroundofwavetransformationsinshal

3、lowwaterandabsorbingthecommonlyacceptedresearchachievementandsuccessfullyusedexperienceInthepaperAcombinedrefraction。difiractionmodelofdirectionalwavespectrumiSfirstlyestablishedforthewavestravellinginthewaterwithlimited

4、depthtakingtheeffectsofnonuniformcurrentsandbottom矗ictionintoaccountNumericalcomputationtestsaredoneonseveralsupposedtopographiestevealthemarkedinfluenceofwaveenergydirectionaldistributionandnon—uniformcurrentsonwaveheig

5、htdistributionSuitabilityofthemodeliSprovedbygoodagreementbetweencomputedwavespectraandobserveddataInordertoenablethewavemodeltObesuitableinveryshallowWateranewformofbreakingwavedecayingmodelisalsosetup，whichadoptstheene

6、rgydecayequationofsimplebreakingwaveandanewlyderivedbreakingwaveheightprobabilitydistributionfromintroducingtheconceptofrandomlimitedwaveheightintowaveheightstatistics，reflectstherelationshipbetweenbreakertypeanddegreeof

7、energydecaygottenfromexperimentalanalysis，andperformssimilarmacroenergycontrolasthatbythetechnologicalstandardsforharbourengineeringinChinaModelefficientiSwelItestifiedbyfielddata1aboratorydataandciteddataAsanun—negligib

8、lecompanionofwavemodelsanumericalmodelforwavesetuDandnearshorecurrentsoncomplicatebediSimprovedwithnewformsofRadiationStressitemswhichconsiderthenon—linearityandsurfacediscontinuityofbreakingwavesTheinteractionamongwaves

9、et—up，nearshorecurrentsandnearshorewavesisstudiedbynumericaltestsonsupposedtopographiesItisshownthatthedistributionofnearshorecurrentsiSverysensitivetothedirectionofincidentwaveswhilewavesetupsignificantlyincreasesthewav

10、eheightinsurfzoneInthepracticalmodelsystempresentedinthepapernearshorewaves，setupandnearshorecurrentsarecoupled、sincethatnearshorewaveswhichinducethewaveset—uDandnearshorecurrentsaresimulatedonthetopographywithnearshorec